Ask most visitors what Newari cuisine is and they'll say momo. Fair enough, since the Newar community did shape how Kathmandu eats dumplings. But the real Newari table is a lot wider, funkier and more interesting than a steamer basket. If you've only had momo, you've barely knocked on the door. I grew up hearing that you haven't eaten properly until someone has handed you something you can't quite name and told you to just try it. That's the spirit here. Let's go through what to order and where to look. What Is Newari Cuisine, Really? The Newars are the original inhabitants of Kathmandu Valley, and their food follows the rhythm of festivals, seasons and family occasions. Much of it is built around buffalo meat, beaten rice (baji), black soybeans, ginger, garlic, mustard oil and fenugreek. Flavors lean sharp, smoky and sour rather than simply spicy. Food here is also ritual. Certain dishes show up at certain feasts, and a proper Newari feast on a leaf p...
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